We’re back to the subject of alpine wines from the Alto Adige again, so I thought I’d post the above photo of the Köferehof vineyards in winter because it really hammers home the idea of wine from the Alps! If you’re thinking to yourself: “If the Alto Adige is an Italian wine region, then why is the winery’s name German?” I’ve got the answer for you. Because the Alto Adige is Italy’s northern-most province, sitting along the Austrian border, it has a large German population. You might hear it referred to as South Tyrol in English, which harkens back to when Tyrol was a German-speaking region that was eventually annexed by Italy in 1919, but in most wine circles you’ll see it referenced as Südtirol. Today, we’re going to talk about one of Südtirol’s top wineries, if not the top winery: Köfererhof.
First acquired by the Kerschbaumer family in 1940, the Kofererhof estate dates back more than 850 years, but only started bottling its own wines within the last thirty. With a few hectares of vines at the base of the Dolomite mountains, their fruit creates wines that are intensely fragrant, concentrated and well-balanced. They were also one of the first organic farmers in the region. All in all, the total production for the estate is only around 3,500 cases of wine per year, so what’s made available to us at Mission is always limited in supply. Whereas most of the wines from Köfererhof are crisp and clean due to their maturation in stainless steel, the one I’m going to tell you about today is an exception: an exquisite Sylvaner aged in acacia wood casks.
Rather than give you my two cents (which is highly biased because I’m completely smitten with these wines), I’m going to let you read the gushing press below.
2019 Köfererhof “R” Valle Isarco Sylvaner $39.99
94+ POINTS: VINOUS - The 2019 Sylvaner R is deeper and richer than the 2020 beside it, with nuances of vanilla bean and dusty white flowers blossoming into crushed pears and hints of sweet spice. This impresses with the silkiest of textures that are cut by a laser-like core of bright acids and penetrating citrus tones. It all results in a long and stimulating finale with a salty flourish that goes on and on, further complemented by hints of candied lime that linger. Hold onto your seat when tasting because this is one of the top wines being made in Alto Adige today!
93 POINTS: ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE - The Köfererhof 2019 Alto Adige Valle Isarco Sylvaner R is sharp and bright and held tightly together by a pretty limestone note of crushed stone. In addition to that mineral definition, you also get hints of tropical fruit, white peach and Golden Delicious apple. You might try this white with a bouillabaisse, from the South of France, or some other fish-stew recipe in your Rolodex.
VINOUS Continued: Frankly stated, Günther Kerschbaumer of Köfererhof is currently making some of the best wines in Alto Adige today. Located in the Isarco River valley, this family-run operation is considered one of the smaller growers in the region, even with their 80,000-bottle production. While Kerschbaumer is fully aware of just how well his wines are being received, he remains completely humble. In fact, you're more likely to find him working in the vineyard before anywhere else. He oversees all practices throughout their six hectares of estate vines and five hectares of long-held, contracted parcels throughout the valley. All practices have been organic since before 1995, when the winery began bottling. Elevations range from 650 to 850 meters above sea level and all on steep, well-draining slopes. Kerschbaumer firmly believes that itʼs the terroir that matters most, and as such the wines go through spontaneous fermentations, and nearly all of them are refined in stainless steel, with the exception of the Sylvaner R, where the wine matures in acacia wood casks. When tasting the Sylvaner R, you really taste the potential of this producer and the region as a whole. Check in on the wines of Köfererhof sooner rather than later because while thereʼs no talk of prices going up at this time, itʼs only so long before this producer is truly discovered.
-David Driscoll