If you missed the live Instagram discussion with legendary Napa winemaker Steve Matthiasson last week, I’d encourage you to check it out now. It was such an inspiring walk through the vineyards with Steve that we immediately sold every bottle of Matthiasson rosé on hand, forcing us to scramble for additional inventory in the wake of today's email offer.
For those who aren't familiar with the Matthiasson wines, the New York Times' Eric Asimov has a fantastic summary: “Matthiasson wines bear an agricultural stamp, as fresh, lively and alive as the best produce from a farmers’ market."
Indeed, the stamp each Matthiasson label bears is the pruning shear: the most important tool in the Matthiasson tool belt, as Steve's philosophy is far more centered around farming than actual winemaking. "The pruning shear is our version of a chef's knife," Steve said during our discussion; "When you buy a bottle of Matthiasson, you're paying for for the fact that our vines were tended by hand, by full-time, year round employees with paid holidays and 401Ks. They're doing everything by hand, taking care of the land organically."
The 2021 Matthiasson Rosé was made from a combination of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Counoise from the Windmill Vineyard in the Dunnigan Hills, Barbera from the Muller Vineyard in the Dunnigan Hills, and Syrah grapes from the Hurley Vineyard in Napa Valley. It is delicate on the nose, fresh and lively on the palate, and it really lights up the taste buds about mid-way with tangy red fruits and beautiful notes of raspberry with herbs. All the fruit is grown specifically for rosé and harvested very early to keep the acidity fresh, similar to the level of ripeness for a sparkling wine. If I had to choose the top rosé from any winery in the world, I can't imagine tasting anything better than this 2021 vintage from Matthiasson. Their obsession with organic farming and top-notch fruit is palpable in every sip.
In the tradition of Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2019 Matthiasson Napa includes a small amount of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, and is blended from six vineyards throughout the Napa Valley. The three AVAs are Coombsville for structure and black fruit, Rutherford for savory Cabernet characters and bright fruit, and Oak Knoll for soft fruit. It is a Napa Cab of the old school, a blended wine, age-worthy, complex, and begging for a steak off of the grill.
As Steve discusses during the Instagram conversation, the fruit was specifically farmed to yield fruit with a lower alcohol levels, brimming with traditional and classic Cabernet Sauvignon flavors of dark fruit, tobacco leaf, and a hint of pepper, yet simultaneously with mild tannic structure to create a wine approachable in its youth. To me, this wine drinks like California Cabernet from decades ago, reminiscent of old Heitz Martha's Vineyard vintages, but with a silkiness and elegance that manifests itself immediately, rather than over decades in the cellar. In short, it's nothing less than spectacular.
-David Driscoll
As an aside, don't miss the Tendu Wines as well: an affordable label that also features Steve Matthiasson as its winemaker, and holds true to the same organic standards. It's like a farmers' market inside every bottle.