Since we’re kicking off Women’s History Month now with March 1st upon us, I thought I would use the opportunity to highlight some of the coolest, most talented, and most important female producers in the booze industry and celebrate their achievements. I’m starting off with a bang by recognizing the fantastic and always-entertaining Martine Lafitte, the proprietor of Domaine Boingnères: what is considered by many to be one of the finest—if not the finest—Armagnacs money can buy.
Domaine Boingnères (pronounced bwan-yer) is located in the small commune of Le Frêche, which is known for having the best growing soil in all of Bas-Armagnac. The estate vineyards cover 21 hectares, 13 of which are planted to Folle Blanche, 4.5 with Colombard, and 4 with Ugni Blanc. The fact that Martine specializes in Folle Blanche is important because Folle Blanche is the hardest varietal to grow. That being said, Martine was the one who taught me that the extra work is worth the effort because the complex flavors of Folle Blanche are the most haunting and enticing when done properly.
Another important thing to know about Martine: she’s a strict traditionalist. She never adds water or any additives to her Armagnac, and everything she bottles is done at full proof. She never cuts corners, and she’s willing to wait forever if need be in order ensure her brandies are bottled only when ready. There are few people in Armagnac who have standards as high as Martine, and it shows when you taste anything from Boingnères. They’re not the woodiest, or the biggest, or the most powerful, or the smoothest brandies. What they are, without a doubt, is simply captivating. They’re inspirational, downright divine spirits. If I had to pick one Armagnac to drink for the rest of my life, it would be Boingnères without a doubt.
Martine is also one of my favorite people to eat with. When you eat at Boingnères, you’re getting one of the most old school meals in all of France. I was pulling the buckshot out of my pigeon at lunch on one memorable occasion. The entire estate is like something out of an old novel, but if you look behind the curtains here and there, you’ll find Martine’s stashes of soap operas and cheesy sitcoms on DVD hidden behind 200 year old tapestries and historic mantles. Martine has standards, but she also keeps it real.
-David Driscoll