As is the case with many things in life, beauty often goes unrecognized for years until one can both appreciate its context and better understand its utility.
In my particular case, there’s a number of films, books, and records that I never really took an interest in until I hit forty. Yet, almost like flipping a switch, suddenly I have this newfound gratitude for certain genres that seemed rather boring or uninteresting only a few years ago. I seem to have more patience, more of a desire to think outside myself, and a better awareness of what’s out there.
The same goes for my recent experiences with alcohol.
I remember my first few years at K&L when everyone was freaking out about Brunello and I was completely in the dark. 2006 had been a solid vintage and, as the wines were starting to arrive, my co-workers were telling me to put cases away in my cellar. Years later, it was the same with the “vintage-of-a-lifetime” 2010 offerings, but I wasn’t there yet. The idea of spending hundreds of dollars on wines with which I had no real connection didn’t seem like something I wanted to do. I was always much more interested in Bordeaux anyway.
But, like with a 401K or IRA account, it’s always later in life that we wish we would have been more aggressive in our youth.
Flash forward to the beginning of 2020 when I went to work for Skurnik in New York and took over as the California Spirits Portfolio Manager. I had only been with the company for two months when COVID-19 shut everything down, which left me working from home for most of the year. It was during those initial months that I began stepping up my Italian cooking skills, mostly due to the tutelage of my good friend Marco Galatro from Tuscany. I was obsessed with Marco’s ragu sauce and, surprisingly, so was my normally meat-averse wife.
Before I ramble on any further, the point is this: my diet began to change in 2020 as a result of my new-found passion for Italian cooking, and I began buying new wines as a result. Skurnik has one of the deepest Italian import portfolios in the country, so I started diving deep into the wines of Lisini, Ciacci, and Collosorbo. The more I drank, the more I realized I had completely missed the boat with Brunello.
Before I start to lose you, let me give you three quick reasons why I finally saw the light with Montalcino last year:
Price: The best wines from Montalcino aren’t cheap, but they cost a fraction of what the best Burgundies and Bordeaux will run you. A top-notch Brunello is not yet out of reach in the way Bordeaux’s first and second growth labels have become, as you can still drink incredibly well for $50.
Flavor: I still think Bordeaux is king when it comes to earth-shattering complexity, but that’s because I was raised in a Bordeaux-heavy retail environment. Lately, I have to admit, I’m turning into a serious Sangiovese fiend. Something about that soft cherry core, bolstered with that meaty, minerally note has found a home on my palate. If I’m eating pizza or pasta, I’m probably drinking Rosso di Montalcino these days. If it’s meat, I’m definitely drinking Brunello.
Cuisine: Let’s be honest: are you drinking old world Cabernet with anything other than steak? Because I’m not. And I’m not eating enough steak to drink all the old world Cabernet in my cellar. Sangiovese pairs beautifully with many different foods and, as I expand into different Italian dishes at home, I find that the wines from Montalcino hit the spot more often than not.
So why bring up Brunello now? Because we’re in the midst of another magical moment for the region and I don’t want any of you to miss out on these wines the way that I missed out on them back in the day.
2015 was a fantastic year for a number of producers in Montalcino, and 2016 is being hailed as the next great vintage with the hype so big at this point I’m considering putting less money into my stock market account this year, and more of it into my cellar. With a number of stellar 2015 wines in stock now, and the 2016 wines coming soon, this is the perfect time to get into the category if you’ve been on the sidelines thus far.
I grabbed a number of cases for the store this week that I think are worth your time, and I’ve preordered a bunch of 2016s in the meantime. I’m going to list a few here for the moment and I’m going to use scores from the two critics I turn to the most for Italian feedback: Eric Guido from Vinous and Monica Larner from the Wine Advocate.
Here’s what Guido wrote about Montalcino recently: “I’ve never seen this region as alive as it is today, fueled by a younger generation and the open-mindedness of an older generation which is slowly turning over responsibilities to them. Dare I say, a modern-day renaissance? What’s more, there is still remarkable value to be found in Brunello; and with a vintage like 2016 in front of us, consumers are in for a real treat.”
And Larner: “2016 Brunello di Montalcino and 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, will officially hit the market in January 2021. These wines deliver a twofold win, with classy 2016s and flashy 2015s, that speak to the best of Brunello. Brunello from 2016 and Brunello Riserva from 2015 are poised for long-term success, they will undoubtedly be remembered as important highlights on a long timeline of vintages. These are career-defining wines for many estates and for the appellation as a whole.”
Here’s my advice to you:
Buy some 2015s to drink now. The wines are pretty and have a lot to offer immediately.
If you like them, think about investing in some of the 2016s for your cellar. These wines are going to last a decade or more and you’ll be happy you have them down the road—trust me.
2020 was the year I finally connected with Brunello. And I think 2021 is going to be the year many, many wine drinkers around the world do the same. The wines have a charm, complexity, and an ability to age that we don’t see for $40-$60 these days. They’re not over-extracted like many California Cabernets and they’re not overpriced like much of Bordeaux.
If you’re ready for the next great wine adventure, here are a few suggestions:
2015 Lisini Brunello di Montalcino $49.95
94 POINTS - VINOUS: The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino dark and rich, showing ripe black cherries and plum, with layers of haunting florals, exotic brown spice and smoky mineral tones. On the palate, a wave of polished textures wash across the senses, ushering in juicy black cherry with sweet herbal and floral undertones, with zesty spices and vibrant acidity adding a refreshing quality. The finish is long and remarkably fresh, an example of how the warmth of Sant’Angelo in Colle can be tempered by a deft hand, as fine tannins come forward, balanced by mouthwatering acidity and punctuated by residual pure red berry fruit. It’s a wine that’s very easy to love, with near term appeal and potential for the cellar. -Eric Guido
94 POINTS - WINE ADVOCATE: The Lisini 2015 Brunello di Montalcino shows muscle and brawn, filling out its full-bodied frame with plenty of dark fruit, spice, tar and smoke. If you like a more concentrated style of Sangiovese, this is your wine. It offers seamless harmony and sun-drenched intensity that all work very nicely in this classic and warm vintage. You can wait, or drink it in the near-term with a rack of lamb. - Monica Larner
DAVID’S NOTES: Lisini is one of the reference points for Montalcino winemaking. If it were a Bordeaux estate, maybe it would be Lynch-Bages. Classic, no-frills winemaking with a cult following that has lasted for decades. There’s nothing new world or modern about these wines, but at the same time they’re incredibly pretty and well-balanced. I’ve had plenty of “old school” Montalcino (and Bordeaux) that tasted like a wet barn after a cow took a shit. This isn’t that. I’m nosing the Lisini now as I type this and it’s glorious. There’s no mistaking the dark cherry note, but it’s layered with all sorts of other delicate aromas. There’s a nice tannic grip on the palate, but there’s still plenty of grace here. I love this.
2015 Podere Scopetine Brunello di Montalcino $49.95
93 POINTS - WINE ADVOCATE: The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino unfolds slowly, showing a quiet and tempered aromatic display. Aromas of dark fruit, plum and dried cherry build in intensity. As they come into clearer view, you also catch contours of smoke, tar and balsam herb. The wine shows a soft approach in terms of mouthfeel, but that too grows with time. The wine picks up considerably more volume and width with aeration. Serve it with some aged pecorino. Only 6,800 bottles were produced. -Monica Larner
DAVID’S NOTES: Do you have a romantic ideal about the tiny farm in Tuscany that makes incredible wines, from a handful of hectares, in minuscule quantities, for just a handful of devoted fans? Good, so do I. That’s why I love this wine from Scopetone. Made in some of the oldest terroir in Montalcino, only 375 cases are made annually on average!! There’s almost nothing of this wine available anywhere. You wanna talk about a perfumed and savory complexity; this wine is like a trip down the terroir rabbit hole, while maintaining its soft-fruited character.
2015 Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino $49.95
93 POINTS - VINOUS: Dusty black cherries, cinnamon, sage, dried florals and savory spice lift effortlessly from the glass, forming a bouquet that keeps me coming back again and again. The palate is laced with silky textures, along with pure ripe cherry and plum, mineral underpinnings and subtle spice. Brisk acids and fine tannins mingle, presenting a wonderfully balanced experience. The finish is long and savory, with dried cherries and minerals resonating over a coating of refined tannins punctuated by lingering spice. -Eric Guido
DAVID’S NOTES: If the idea of old school Brunello still sounds a bit too rustic for you, and you’re generally more of a California Cab person, then check out this riper and rounder offering from Collosorbo. It still has all the stuffing that you want from a proper Brunello, but with softer edges and more weight. Collosorbo’s estate has some of the best soils in Montalcino and an all-south-facing slope. It’s an all-female team as well—a mother and two daughters—and all the fruit is hand-harvested. Plus, you can pop this bottle tonight and really get going with this whole Brunello thing!
-David Driscoll