A Trio of Rarities From Matthiasson
For those unfamiliar with the Matthiasson wines, the New York Times' Eric Asimov summarized it perfectly: “Matthiasson wines bear an agricultural stamp, as fresh, lively and alive as the best produce from a farmers’ market."
Namely, if you’re a locavore, or someone who cares deeply about organics, caring for the earth, and getting the freshest, more flavorful produce possible, then Steve Matthiasson is likely already known to your household. He is perhaps the most influential winemaker in Napa, if not the state of California, and his humble ethos has won many a convert over the last decade.
For the last few years, we’ve worked closely with Steve, streaming various Instagram Live tastings, and doing our best to educate consumers about Matthiasson’s incredible winemaking.
Each Matthiasson label bears the stamp of the pruning shear: the most important tool in the Matthiasson tool belt, as Steve's philosophy is far more centered around farming than actual winemaking. "The pruning shear is our version of a chef's knife," Steve said during one of our discussions; "When you buy a bottle of Matthiasson, you're paying for for the fact that our vines were tended by hand, by full-time, year round employees with paid holidays and 401Ks. They're doing everything by hand, taking care of the land organically."
Now, the former San Francisco Chronicle winemaker of the year has released to us a few small production rarities that are normally held back for wine club members.
We only have a few cases of each, so grab what interests you as they are very limited in scale.
Matthiasson Pinot Meunier Yount Mill 2022 $52.99
The Pinot Meunier in the organically-farmed Yount Mill Vineyard was originally planted for sparkling wine (as it’s one of the red varieties in Champagne). Still wine made from Pinot Meunier is rare and can make very earthy wine with a beautiful strawberry note when grown in France, but Steve was curious as to how it would result in Napa. As it turns out, it’s absolutely delicious, like a Pinot Noir in style, but lighter, still earthy, and also fruity, even more so than the French versions. It also maintains a minerality that we went crazy for. Matthiasson first made the wine in 2015 assuming it would be a one-off, but it was such a hit that they decided to do it again in 2018, 2020, and now again in 2022. The wine was fermented with 50% whole clusters in a small open top tank, with two manual punch downs per day, so it has almost a Beaujolais feel to it. Don’t miss it.
Matthiasson Schioppettino 2021 $52.99
Schioppettino (also called Ribolla Nera) originates in the Friuli region of Italy and Slovenia, and usually you’ll find it from only the most boutique Italian importers. Matthiasson has one of the few plantings in California. An ancient grape, Schioppettino, which means “gunshot,” is distantly related to Syrah and Pinot Noir, and shares the same peppery nose. When grown in Napa, Schioppettino has fascinating flavors of cedar, white and black pepper, flowers, and raspberry. It is incredibly fresh tasting, with a stony minerality and a naturally low alcohol level. The wine has tons and tons of flavor, yet is feather light on the palate. It’s made from just two rows of vines in Matthiasson’s Oak Knoll Vineyard in Napa Valley!!
Matthiasson Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2022 $42.99
If you love white Bordeaux like we do, then this wine is a must-buy. The Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon is Matthiasson’s take on a classic, 50/50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, a traditional blend that goes back many years in Bordeaux. The Sauvignon Blanc brings a clean fresh citrusy acidity and some tropical character. The Semillon contributes viscosity and waxiness that adds gravity and weight. The acidity and fruit expression are balanced by a rich lees character and a faint backdrop of creamy oak. That interplay is the magic of this time-honored blend. Flavors include grapefruit, fresh cut pineapple, flint, oat straw, dried fig, and beeswax. Delicious!!!