When you’re in bed for days at a time, you quickly run out of new TV shows to screen. I blew through The Old Man with Jeff Bridges, and cleared out all eight episodes of The Bear in the span of a single day. The Old Man is like a modern day version of John Rambo spliced with Bryan Mills from Taken, so it’s very entertaining. The Bear, on the other hand, caught me completely off guard with its combination of brilliant acting, cinematography, musical ambiance, and deeply emotional writing. It’s about the struggles of a chef, cooking in the high-stress kitchen atmosphere that numerous chefs have written about over the years. I can’t recommend it highly enough. 

There are several themes running through The Bear that I relate to on a very personal level, and after finishing the season I was in a contemplative state for hours. Thinking about what originally inspired me to dig deeper into the wine and spirits industry, I ended up going back through some of the early Anthony Bourdain episodes in Paris. Immediately, two things jumped out at me: 

First off, Bourdain had a huge chip on his shoulder with his “love” of weird organ meat, reminiscent of so many people I know in the wine industry. In each episode, he’s constantly signaling his preference for things like veal kidneys or head cheese, which separates him from “other Americans.” I was cringing in retrospect. Second, in an episode with Éric Ripert, the theme of classic vs. modern French cuisine comes up over and over, to the point where Ripert has to defend his three Michelin star rating from a new generation of anti-authority cooks who feel his cooking is too old school. But, as we know, newcomers will always attack the status quo when they lack the talent to compete head on. 

Which brings me to French wine!

Part of what turns people off when it comes to French wine is the snobbery that surrounds it, but let me be clear with you: that is distinctly an American invention, created by pedantic and insecure people who are embarrassed about their own lack of culture and are projecting that self-imposed shame on to others. Don’t let those personalities get between you and what is, by far, the world’s greatest national wine producer. In addition, don’t get caught up in the anti-authority, new radical movements that need to attack the integrity of their predecessors, but in reality are just less impressive versions of a classic model at a higher price point. You’ve already experienced this phenomenon with craft whiskey, right? Or maybe natural wine?

We just got in a ton of classic, authentic, and distinctive French wines from all over the map, all for prices that are more than reasonable. Beyond their value propositions, each of them tastes exactly like what a wine from the region is supposed to. If you've ever wanted an easy, by the glass example of French typicity, you're about to get it. Every one of these bottles brought me immense joy and I can’t wait to tell you about them:

Bordeaux

2016 Château de Cugat Bordeaux Supérieur $12.99 - When I was working in the Bay Area, we always had sub-$15 Bordeaux in the store, but it was rarely wine that we were excited to drink ourselves. Oftentimes, it was some flabby, Merlot-driven wine that tasted like incense from the addition of oak chips during the finishing process. When I tasted the 2016 Château de Cugat recently, I was completely taken aback by not only the wine’s quality, but also the old school and classic nature of its profile. You really get the earthy, almost funky notes that Bordeaux classicists like myself gravitate towards in pricier releases. Yet, here you get it for less than fifteen dollars. 2016 was also one of the best vintages of the last ten years for Bordeaux, if not the best. Break out your cast iron grill pan, cook up a few steaks, and decant this baby for an hour beforehand. You won’t be sorry. 

Burgundy

2020 André Bonhomme Viré-Clessé “Les Pierres Blanches” $21.99 - As anyone in the wine business will tell you, there are no deals in Burgundy. It’s just flat out expensive. There are a few secrets, however, and Viré-Clessé is one of them. You don’t see many labels from this part of the Maconnais, where almost all of the wines are Chardonnay. The key to the quality of the appellation is the combination of hillside slopes with small pebbles for soil (hence the name “Pierres Blanche” or white stones). The combination of richness and minerality in the Bonhomme is truly spectacular, similar to the dynamism of Sherry and peat in a Scotch whisky. The ripeness of the Chardonnay contrasts against the salinity and the freshness of the wine, offering tropical notes along with racy acidity. If you’d like a sneak peak into what white Burgundy can offer, this is just the edge of the rabbit hole.

Loire Valley

2020 Domaine Daulny Sancerre $21.99 - Sancerre was the wine that originally bit me. After my first bottle, I was infected with a curiosity and passion that saw me turn down my law school acceptance to work at a wine store instead. Instead of reading about torts, I read about the diversity of wines in the Loire Valley. While Sancerre is delicious, it’s the idea of terroir that really gets your mind working. Planted in stony, rocky soils, the Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre tastes like citrus and stone fruit with a minerality that tastes a wet river stone. The 2020 Daulny has all of that classic character for a price that truly delivers. Considering the sources of the fruit that goes into this cuvée, it should be $30+. You’ll never go back to oaky California Chardonnay after drinking this. 

2021 Domaine Adèle Rouzé Quincy $17.99 - The Loire River valley is home to a multitude of varietals, but I am a true believer that it is the spiritual home of Sauvignon Blanc. California makes some good SB, as does New Zealand and South Africa, but they don’t haunt your dreams the way Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs do. Quincy doesn’t carry the reputation that Sancerre does, but the wines are unique in their own way and can be just as delicious. Adèle Rouzé only makes one wine, this one, and it’s a snappy, citrus-filled, crisp and vibrant Sauvignon Blanc that lights up your taste buds with every sip. If you’re into goat cheese at all, that’s what you pair with this. Do goat cheese on crackers, goat cheese in a salad, goat cheese in a tart—however you want it! The pairing is magical. 

Gascony

2020 Domaine Duffour Côte de Gascogne Blanc $9.99 - We all know that Armagnac is distilled from wine, but do you know what that wine is? If you’ve never tasted the ridiculously inexpensive and insanely quaffable splendor that is Côte de Gascogne Blanc, then now is your chance. This wine has to travel from Armagnac to port, across the Atlantic, and through the American three tier system—and it’s still just $9.99!! This wine is a blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc and it’s everything you want on a Wednesday evening. Clean, pure flavors of stone fruit and melon, refreshing acidity, and no frills. 

Provence

2020 Les Vignobles Gueissard Bandol Rosé $17.99 - If Provence is the mecca of rosé for wine drinkers, then Bandol would be its epicenter. The appellation is renowned for its Mourvèdre-focused rosés that showcase both elegance and finesse. If you want to know the foundations of what many people think rosé is supposed to taste like, then you need to try a bottle of Bandol. Guessard was started by Clement Minné, who interned at Domaine Tempier—one of the most prestigious producers in the region. Pale peach-pink in color with aromas of tart strawberries and a zesty, citrus-y finish. Don’t be fooled by its subtlety. That’s exactly what you’re paying for!

-David Driscoll