How To Calvados
As I mentioned on Monday’s post, I’ve got a ton of fun new things coming in from France this week, some of which were imported by my friend Charles Neal exclusively for a handful of bars and restaurants to make cocktails. As I also mentioned, I was on hand for a number of these blending occasions to lend whatever council I could, so let’s start today with Calvados and the new “Selection” from Domaine du Manoir de Montreuil (we also have the standard “Reserve” (white label) in stock as well). All of these photos are from December of 2015, when Charles and I went in quest of more supplies.
Whenever I bring up Calvados—apple brandy from the Normandy region of France—I always get the same question: How do I enjoy it?
Smart ass answer: you pour it in a glass and drink it.
But in all seriousness, let me break it down. Whenever we blend anything on these trips, we start with a pricepoint we want to hit and then we spend most of the afternoon finding the most drinkable base vintage at the cost we need, before adding in older brandies for texture. The Montreuil “Selection” was indeed blended with younger brandies at a higher proof so that the fruit still pops when mixed into a cocktail. My favorite Calvados cocktail is a twist on the Jack Rose called the Pan-American Clipper, but to be honest: you can still sip the “Selection” straight out of a glass and be completely satisfied. The quality is fantastic, the apple flavors really sing, and if you add a few other elements to the experience you can really make the most of the moment.
Most of my favorite Calvados moments were spent outside on a cold winter’s day, so February is the perfect time to pour yourself a warming glass of the Norman spirit. If you live near an orchard or a farm, bring a flask and go for a walk. Calvados is one of the world’s true farm spirits in that the symbiosis of animals and apple trees plays a role in the quality. The livestock looks after the weeds and the fertilizer, so that the trees can remain healthy and produce the best possible fruit.
Drinking Calvados by a warm fire is also a fine experience. Most of the time, because it’s cold outside, we huddle around the wood-fired pot still for warmth while we taste and discuss the various selections. Since we’re all stuck eating outdoors anyway, why not fire up the old grill, invite some friends to social distance in a responsible way, and open up a bottle of Calvados to start?
What to serve? Anything, really; but if you want to do it the way the Normans do, the more meat the better. Calvados loves rich, fatty meats. Get some terrine, some rillettes, some sausage—whatever you can manage. You’ll be amazed at how the Calvados cuts through all that meatiness and adds to the overall experience. There’s a reason apple sausage exists.
If you’re going meatless, go the cheese route. What better to pair with Norman brandy than Norman cheese? I could do Camembert and Calvados all day long. It’s a fantastically decadent treat, even better if you add a bottle of Norman cider or some Pommeau.
You don’t need to be in France to enjoy Calvados. You just need to get yourself a bottle. The rest will take care of itself.
-David Driscoll