I remember a time when Bruichladdich’s Octomore single malt whiskies were only for thrill seekers and super peat heads; they were for extreme smoke lovers, the same folks who search out the world’s hottest salsas. 

Tasting what is now the 12th new iteration of Octomore—the world’s peatiest single malt—it’s amazing how balanced and restrained the whisky seems after more than a decade on the market. It could be that my taste buds have been blown out at this point. It could be that I’ve simply become acclimated to bolder whiskies. It could also be that the Octomore whiskies are more balanced and harmonious than they’ve ever been.

Or it could be all three!

And three is exactly what we have here with the 12th editions: a trio of whiskies that manages to offer a reasonable amount of variance despite their similar characteristics. 

A bit of history for those new to the brand: Octomore, like Port Charlotte, is named after an old farm distillery on Islay that dates back to 1816, resurrected by Bruichladdich as a unique label. According to historical records, Octomore ran a single still operation until 1840, eventually falling into disrepair after the passing of its owner. Bruichladdich distills the Octomore whiskies at an incredibly slow speed in order to pack as much peat as possible into every drop; hence, the process is costly and time-consuming, which helps explain the higher-than-normal price points.

Bruichladdich’s Octomore project began under the stewardship of the famous Jim McEwan, one of the most legendary distillers in the history of the business, but today it’s managed by Bruichladdich’s head distiller Adam Hannett. The last time I took a deep dive into Octomore was back in 2016, when Adam and I went spelunking in the Octomore warehouse, popping barrels and pulling cask samples. Since then, I’ve tasted a handful of new releases, but never with the careful consideration I’m giving here to the 12th editions.

Let’s get down to business, shall we?

Octomore 12. 1 - 59.9% ABV, 130.8 PPM, 5 Years Old $189.99

There is a method to the Octomore numbering system, and the .1 releases are always matured in ex-Bourbon barrels (and ex-Tennessee whiskey barrels, if you want to be precise). For me personally, American oak maturation is the ideal vessel for Octomore as it gently rounds out the spirit without muting its character.

The nose is gigantic: olive brine, freshly-malted barley, the peat comes third, only after you’ve given it a few gentle nosings. Some of the most compelling peated whiskies are more like eau-de-vie of peated barley, rather than the product of oak maturation. If you’ve ever visited a distillery that produces peated whisky, or does its own floor malting, everything about this whisky transports the mind to that location. The 12.1 tastes like the Bruichladdich floor malt smells. It’s pure like mountain spring water, precise in its delineation of flavors, cleanly-defined in that you can taste the barley, peat, and vanilla in clear tones, and vibrant on the finish with plenty of lift.

For those who like fresh and youthful flavors in their whiskies, this is for you. As someone who enjoys eau-de-vie, consider this the Rochelt of the Octomore line-up. It’s the transference of the soul into liquid form.

Octomore 12. 2 - 57.3% ABV, 129.7 PPM, 5 Years Old $219.99

The nose on the 12.2 is like creme brûlée next to a campfire, which is how you know the Sauternes cask maturation is in full effect. The Octomore .2 releases are also distilled from Scottish barley like the .1 series, but are matured in European oak rather than American—usually ex-wine casks like Sauternes or Amarone.

You can really smell the oak on the nose as well, with freshly peated barley bringing up the rear. On the palate, there’s an initial sweetness from the Sauternes cask, and a thicker texture on the mid-palate, but it’s a subtle and somewhat gentle addition of richness. The 12.2 is still very much a peat and barley-driven malt, but there’s more fleshiness and the peat turns into cinnamon and baking spices rather than a plant-like or vegetal character.

The finish is spicy and nuanced, meandering between candied fruit and peppery peat. The empty glass smells like my jacket after a night at the cigar lounge, which later motivated me to pair the 12.2 with a La Palina Bronze Label cigar. Delicious.

Octomore 12. 3 - 62.1% ABV, 118.1 PPM, 5 Years Old $249.99

The .3 Octomores distinguish themselves from the .1 and .2 in that they’re always distilled from locally-sourced Islay barley from a single estate near Bruichladdich (where the actual Octomore distillery was once located). There’s a tangy, almost citric note on the nose that sets this apart from the others, similar to what I often taste in the Kilchoman Local Barley whiskies.

That Islay barley is really a different animal, bringing vanilla and oranges on the nose, followed by classic oak with peppery spice. Using 75% American oak maturation and 25% Pedro Ximenez Sherry, the peat is almost an afterthought in the 12.3. It’s clearly smoky whisky, but it’s not the star of the show here. There are so many other things happening beneath every layer, from chocolate to a bright, laser-like herbaceous character. If you’re a super geek looking for variance in your Islay whisky, the 12.3 is the one for you.

The Takeaway: In the past, I would have called Octomore a novelty whisky: something you drink every once in a while when you’re in the mood for a strong and intense dram. With all three of the 12 editions, however, I found myself pouring glass after glass for days in a row, never once feeling brow-beaten by the peat or the proof. If pressed to choose just one, I’d probably side with the 12.1 due to my personal preference of American oak with this style of malt, but you really can’t go wrong with all three. As I mentioned earlier, they’re each unique enough to warrant purchasing all three. As far as peated whiskies go, they’re three of the most satisfying single malts I’ve tasted this year from anywhere. I could see myself even buying a refill.

-David Driscoll