French wine is often intimidating to American drinkers because of the impetus it places on the consumer: it’s on YOU to know what’s in the bottle and not the label’s job to tell you.
As an example, many wine collectors know that red wines from Burgundy are made from Pinot Noir, and the whites from Chardonnay, but you’ll almost never find those varietals named on the label. As a result, California Pinot Noir lovers tend to stick close to home and eschew Burgundy’s confusing and increasingly expensive hierarchy of vineyards and producers.
That being said, there’s a reason the most sought-after and expensive Pinot Noirs in the world ALL come from Burgundy. And that has people curious!
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti wines can run $5000+ per bottle, if you’re lucky enough to find one, while even the lesser-known names bottling Richebourg vineyard expressions start at $1000. Granted, not all Burgundy falls into this category, but California doesn’t have anything even close to this Pinot Noir price point, which many Americans find compelling. Why is it so expensive? They want to know more, just like Bourbon drinkers who obsess over Pappy Van Winkle.
THE PROBLEM: Pinot Noir from Burgundy is incredibly specific to vintage, region, winemaker, and style of production—so much so, that consistency is practically nonexistent. Because of extremely limited production, prices remain high regardless and the onus is on YOU—the customer—to know what you’re buying before you buy it. As a result, the category represents one of the biggest crapshoots in all of wine, but the highs are often glorious and keep collectors coming back time and time again.
THE REASON: The right bottle of Burgundy, opened at the right time, with the right meal, is one of the greatest experiences that wine can offer to humanity. As the late Julia Child once famously said: “I would happily die with a bottle of Burgundy in my mouth.” We agree, which is why we’re sending you this email!
At Mission, we’re well aware that countless few of our customers are ready to casually drop $50 - $100 (if not $300 - $500) on a complete gamble, so we’ve taken the liberty of sourcing two extremely delicious bottles of red Burgundy that we think embody its legacy and lore to help get you started. Burgundy is one of those rare categories that still relies on good word-of-mouth, and recommendations from friends, as its merits are so specific. We think you’re going to love both of these wines.
Meet Domaine Maurice Charleaux from Maranges
Domaine Maurice Charleaux is a tiny producer in the Maranges region of the Côtes de Beaune, virtually unknown in the U.S. albeit from a handful of Burgundy enthusiasts here in the states. With roughly 10 hectares of vineyards, all of the fruit today is handled by Vincent Charleaux who does a masterful job with each expression.
If you’re looking for affordable, well-made red Burgundy that tastes like cherries, flowers, and cassis with baking spices and just the slightest tannic structure (basically everything we love about Burgundian Pinot Noir), look no further than the following wines:
2022 Domaine Maurice Charleaux & Fils Bourgogne Rouge $23.99 (Elsewhere $30)
Bourgogne Rouge is often just the general appellation of Burgundy, meaning the grapes have little distinction compared to the single vineyard expressions, but that’s hardly the case with this wine! The Charleaux edition comes from just half a hectare of the domaine’s 50 year old vines near the Maranges. Effortless and elegant in the glass, this wine sings of strawberry, cherry, and cassis, with just a touch of earth and persistent tannins. Sustainably farmed by Vincent Charleaux, this wine is screaming for a warm basket of French bread and some charcuterie! Give it some air time to entice more deliciousness.
Things get far more serious with Charleaux’s “Pépé Joseph” Clos Roussot, a premier cru vineyard designation in the Maranges region of the Côte de Beaune. Wine nerds can break out their Clive Coates Burgundy book to get the nitty gritty details on the vineyard specifics, but as Coates writes clearly: “People have started to visit Maranges, and for good reason. There is good winemaking, interesting wines and good value here,” especially at Domaine Charleaux, which he describes as “neither too dense nor unduly rustic; indeed getting steadily better and better,” with each vintage. Les Clos Roussots vineyard sits at the top of the appellation along the border with Santenay and the Pinot Noir from this site has incredible depth: more concentrated red berries, more structure and weight, and a streak of minerality that speaks to the rockier limestone soils, with raspberry compote and vanilla on the finish. Charleaux’s tiny 2.14 hectare parcel is yielding some incredible fruit! With a few years of bottle age already, this wine is drinking beautifully now—especially after some light decanting!
