A Game-Changing American Single Malt Whiskey

There was a time in my career when I would have told you unequivocally that Scottish single malt whisky was far superior, but Westland Distillery in Seattle made the best American single malt in the country. Yet, given how fast things are changing today, it's hard to say anything unequivocally about anything anymore.

American single malt whiskey has come a long way over the last few years, and I find myself discovering all sorts of new options (through bottlers like Lost Lantern), while re-tasting new efforts from established producers that have improved by leaps and bounds since the last time I tried them.

Look at Balcones Distillery out of Texas as a prime example; the single cask of European Oak-aged malt whiskey we bought from them last year is absolutely spectacular, and continues to convert new fans.

The folks at Virginia Distillery have also been coming out with some pretty cool releases lately, including a number of Scottish/American blends that are pushing the genre in a new direction.

And then there’s Westward Distillery out of Portland: perhaps the new king of American single malt with its beer-focused base, slow fermentation, and incredibly concentrated flavor. The malt whiskey coming out of this distillery is so beautiful, so rich, and so packed with sweet, malty flavor that we purchased an entire barrel directly from the distillery earlier this year. Having just revisited it for the first time since that day, I can say something else unequivocally that is actually quite shocking: for the first time in my career, I'm actually more excited about American single malt whiskey than Scotch.

While Scotland seems to be on autopilot, going through the motions to bring us an endless array of new whiskies with a rather minimal level of effort, many American distilleries are bringing their A game, hoping to take advantage of the momentum and win over some new converts during the process.

Case in point? Single barrel #295 from Westward Distillery: a 64.17% ABV vanilla bomb that expands over the palate like caramel-covered candy and weaves between crème brûlée, sweet stone fruit, and chocolate malt with a distinct beeriness on the finish that explodes into a buttery custard for the finale and leaves you begging for another sip.

I won't go as far to say that it's the best single malt whiskey I've had in 2021, but it's the most shocking in that I never, ever expected it to be this damn good.

While Bourbon has taken over much of the attention this year at Mission, I'm ready to get excited about single malt once again thanks to Westward. This whiskey smokes any similarly-aged, new single cask release I've had from Scotland this year. It's like pure candy for your palate and it changes continually, every taste offering something new and decadent.

-David Driscoll, Mission Sales Manager

The Best Whiskey Collaboration Of 2021

For those of you who know the story of Denver distiller Todd Leopold and how he resurrected the Three Chamber Still to create a style of rye whiskey not tasted since before Prohibition, we're back again to update you on the sequel to that amazing tale: the new Dickel x Leopold Bros Collaboration Rye Whiskey.

While the release of the Three Chamber Still whiskey as a solo act was thrilling, its original usage was more like the bass notes in a symphony.

Historically, the heavy-bodied, three chamber-distilled whiskies were blended with lighter column-distilled whiskies to create a harmony. In order to showcase the Three Chamber Still whiskey's capacity to add texture, richness, and weight to a blend, Todd teamed up with Nicole Austin over at George Dickel turn back the hands of time and give us another look at what American whiskey would have tasted like 100 years ago.

Bottled at 100 proof, with a rich, oily mouthfeel and heaps of baking spices on the finish, the new Dickel x Leopold rye collaboration is one of the most satisfying American whiskies of 2021 and is sure to make any serious whiskey historian extremely happy.

Our inventory is limited and our price is currently the best in the country, so we don't expect these to last. If you're a fan of both American history and American whiskey, it doesn't get much better than this.

-David Driscoll

Finding The Sweet Spot

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

That's what we said to ourselves when selecting this 58.66% ABV single barrel of MGP rye whiskey from Stellum, part of the 95/5 mash bill Serpens edition.

Single barrel cask strength rye whiskey from MGP in Indiana continues to crush at Mission, so here we are again with another affordable option at a whopping proof.

There's no reinventing the wheel here. If you're a fan of that sweetly-spiced Indiana style, this is just a workhorse bottle looking to find its way into your bar. All the peppery, herbaceous rye character is right there on the palate, but with an absolutely charming sweetness that reminds me a bit of oatmeal or rye mash from the distillery.

From the folks behind Barrell Bourbon, Stellum is a new label primarily focused on marriages of different Bourbons and rye whiskies, but with a single barrel program as well. Stellum uses whiskies from Kentucky, Tennessee, and Indiana, and we had the opportunity to select a cask of rye whiskey from a few different sources, but the sweetness in this particular whiskey is what sets apart this barrel from all the others we tasted.

When you get that perfect balance of sweet and savory in a rye whiskey (at full proof, no less) it's just a wonderful thing.

Get ready to be charmed.

-David Driscoll, Mission Sales Manager

Our Best California Wine Value Of The Year

So I have a confession to make: we've been hiding one of the best wine deals of the year in our Pasadena store for the last month, as a reward for the locals who brave the lines to come see us in person. I'm apologizing right now for keeping these from you. It won't happen again.

To be completely honest, we've also been hoarding a bit of it for ourselves: the Mission staff. When you have a local wine made from fruit this good, by one of the region's most beloved winemakers, each entirely from a single vineyard, for a price this low, you tend to oscillate between immediately telling everyone, or telling absolutely no one. 

What exactly are we talking about here?

We're talking about local Sauvignon Blanc that tastes like white Bordeaux for fiteen bucks. Syrah that drinks like a Northern Rhône, and Mourvèdre that could pass for Southern Rhône, all for well under twenty, and made by Jeff Nelson! It's insane. Without a doubt, one of the best wine deals we've ever uncovered.

It's certainly the most exciting deal I've found since coming over to Mission this year.

For those of you who don't know Jeff or his Liquid Farm wine label, imagine an old world style of wine that embraces the local Santa Barbara County viticulture and climate by showcasing both the capacity for terroir and the potential for food-pairing with local California cuisine. 

To quote Jeff directly: "We were eating local, supporting mom and pop restaurants and farmers markets. In trying to support California wines, we typically didn't finish those bottles as eagerly as the old world wines on our table. That's when we decided to make wine from our own backyard in a style we craved."

The Liquid Farm wines get RAVE reviews year in and year out. As an example, the 2018 White Hill Vineyard Chardonnay $34.99 we just received in got a whopping 94 points from Antonio Galloni over at Vinous. The new 2019 Pinot Noirs just got a pair of 95s, and the new 2019 SBC Pinot Noir $39.99 just snagged a 92. They are the critical darlings of the SoCal wine scene.

Which brings us to Dandi. 

This past October, I drove up to Jeff's house for dinner and stayed the night (with his talking parrot Rio), and that's when he told me about Dandi. The goal with the Dandi label was to bring in two of Jeff's winemaking friends at Liquid Farm and extend the line beyond just Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, incorporating other varietals from fantastic sites along the Central Coast. 

The Mourvèdre is from nearby Vogelsang vineyard, the Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah are both from La Lieff, and all three wines—in true Liquid Farm fashion—are absolutely delightful. Jeff and team were focusing more on restaurants and wine bars with the label, but with the logistical issues during the pandemic they had yet to find a serious retail operation to take on the brand.

As a testament to our relationship, Jeff gave us a take-all price on the three current Dandi offerings if we could help launch the wines at Mission. After tasting the wines over a home-cooked meal, I was practically giddy about the opportunity. Here's the gist:

2018 Dandi Central Coast Syrah $14.99 (Normally $21) - Made in a fresh and easy-drinking style, the 2018 Dandi Syrah offers up juicy dark berries, black pepper, and violets, with a 13.5% ABV that never wallops you over the head the way a number of more-extracted, high alcohol California Syrahs can do. Bold enough to pair with steak au poivre, but light enough to put in the fridge with a slight chill, this is California winemaking at its absolute best value proposition.

2018 Dandi Central Coast Sauvignon Blanc $14.99 (Normally $21) - With a delicate richness and weight more reminiscent of white Bordeaux than the snappy, peppery Sauvignon Blancs we typically see at this price, the 2018 Dandi is one of the most-delicious and most-versatile California white wines we've tasted this year, offering up aromas of white flowers and stone fruit with an effortless, easy-drinking style. 100% barrel-fermented and aged in neutral barrels, it has a roundness on the finish that stands out from the standard pack of sub-$20 options.

2019 Dandi Vogelzang Vineyard Mourvédre $17.99 (Normally $25) - While Mourvédre (or Monastrell as its called in Spain) is normally used as a blending grape in Côte du Rhône or GSM wines, rather than a single varietal, this absolutely gorgeous single vineyard expression sourced from Vogelzang Vineyard in Happy Canyon has us convinced: we need more Mourvédre in our lives! Dark-fruited, juicy, but with just a hint of tannic grip, the savory notes on the finish make this perfect pairing for grilled meats, charcuterie boards, and just about anything else you want to throw at it! At 12.5% ABV, it's a local foodie's dream bottle.

If you want to know what we're drinking this holiday season at Mission, it's Dandi. And if you want to understand just why Liquid Farm is one of the best winemakers in California without breaking the bank, now's your chance.

Once they're gone, that's it. We've got just over twelve cases of each wine in stock for the moment, but the secret is now out. 

-David Driscoll

Sixth Floor Concentration

The general rule of thumb when picking a single cask of Bourbon is: the higher the barrel’s position in the rick house, the hotter the location. The hotter the location of the barrel, the greater the evaporation and concentration of flavor. It’s not a fool-proof formula, but it’s been working for us so far this year.

Beam is nice enough to give you a map of the barrel’s location in the warehouse each time we select a new cask of Knob Creek, so we keep picking casks from the upper stories. The concentration in this new barrel is clear, yielding only 132 bottles.

Our new 9 1/2 year old 120 proof barrel comes from the sixth floor of the rick house and offers the most dessert-like aromas from any Bourbon we’ve selected in 2021. There’s burnt sugar and molasses on the nose, with lots of oak on the palate, but the finish morphs completely into sawdust, savory notes, and tobacco. This whiskey is practically begging for a cigar pairing, but given the price, the proof, and the deliciousness, it will probably go down much faster than the cigar!

-David Driscoll

New Octomore Editions Arrive

I remember a time when Bruichladdich’s Octomore single malt whiskies were only for thrill seekers and super peat heads; they were for extreme smoke lovers, the same folks who search out the world’s hottest salsas. 

Tasting what is now the 12th new iteration of Octomore—the world’s peatiest single malt—it’s amazing how balanced and restrained the whisky seems after more than a decade on the market. It could be that my taste buds have been blown out at this point. It could be that I’ve simply become acclimated to bolder whiskies. It could also be that the Octomore whiskies are more balanced and harmonious than they’ve ever been.

Or it could be all three!

And three is exactly what we have here with the 12th editions: a trio of whiskies that manages to offer a reasonable amount of variance despite their similar characteristics. 

A bit of history for those new to the brand: Octomore, like Port Charlotte, is named after an old farm distillery on Islay that dates back to 1816, resurrected by Bruichladdich as a unique label. According to historical records, Octomore ran a single still operation until 1840, eventually falling into disrepair after the passing of its owner. Bruichladdich distills the Octomore whiskies at an incredibly slow speed in order to pack as much peat as possible into every drop; hence, the process is costly and time-consuming, which helps explain the higher-than-normal price points.

Bruichladdich’s Adam Hannett in the Octomore warehouse in 2016

Bruichladdich’s Octomore project began under the stewardship of the famous Jim McEwan, one of the most legendary distillers in the history of the business, but today it’s managed by Bruichladdich’s head distiller Adam Hannett. The last time I took a deep dive into Octomore was back in 2016, when Adam and I went spelunking in the Octomore warehouse, popping barrels and pulling cask samples. Since then, I’ve tasted a handful of new releases, but never with the careful consideration I’m giving here to the 12th editions.

Let’s get down to business, shall we?

Octomore 12. 1 - 59.9% ABV, 130.8 PPM, 5 Years Old $189.99

There is a method to the Octomore numbering system, and the .1 releases are always matured in ex-Bourbon barrels (and ex-Tennessee whiskey barrels, if you want to be precise). For me personally, American oak maturation is the ideal vessel for Octomore as it gently rounds out the spirit without muting its character.

The nose is gigantic: olive brine, freshly-malted barley, the peat comes third, only after you’ve given it a few gentle nosings. Some of the most compelling peated whiskies are more like eau-de-vie of peated barley, rather than the product of oak maturation. If you’ve ever visited a distillery that produces peated whisky, or does its own floor malting, everything about this whisky transports the mind to that location. The 12.1 tastes like the Bruichladdich floor malt smells. It’s pure like mountain spring water, precise in its delineation of flavors, cleanly-defined in that you can taste the barley, peat, and vanilla in clear tones, and vibrant on the finish with plenty of lift.

For those who like fresh and youthful flavors in their whiskies, this is for you. As someone who enjoys eau-de-vie, consider this the Rochelt of the Octomore line-up. It’s the transference of the soul into liquid form.

Octomore 12. 2 - 57.3% ABV, 129.7 PPM, 5 Years Old $219.99

The nose on the 12.2 is like creme brûlée next to a campfire, which is how you know the Sauternes cask maturation is in full effect. The Octomore .2 releases are also distilled from Scottish barley like the .1 series, but are matured in European oak rather than American—usually ex-wine casks like Sauternes or Amarone.

You can really smell the oak on the nose as well, with freshly peated barley bringing up the rear. On the palate, there’s an initial sweetness from the Sauternes cask, and a thicker texture on the mid-palate, but it’s a subtle and somewhat gentle addition of richness. The 12.2 is still very much a peat and barley-driven malt, but there’s more fleshiness and the peat turns into cinnamon and baking spices rather than a plant-like or vegetal character.

The finish is spicy and nuanced, meandering between candied fruit and peppery peat. The empty glass smells like my jacket after a night at the cigar lounge, which later motivated me to pair the 12.2 with a La Palina Bronze Label cigar. Delicious.

Octomore 12. 3 - 62.1% ABV, 118.1 PPM, 5 Years Old $249.99

The .3 Octomores distinguish themselves from the .1 and .2 in that they’re always distilled from locally-sourced Islay barley from a single estate near Bruichladdich (where the actual Octomore distillery was once located). There’s a tangy, almost citric note on the nose that sets this apart from the others, similar to what I often taste in the Kilchoman Local Barley whiskies.

That Islay barley is really a different animal, bringing vanilla and oranges on the nose, followed by classic oak with peppery spice. Using 75% American oak maturation and 25% Pedro Ximenez Sherry, the peat is almost an afterthought in the 12.3. It’s clearly smoky whisky, but it’s not the star of the show here. There are so many other things happening beneath every layer, from chocolate to a bright, laser-like herbaceous character. If you’re a super geek looking for variance in your Islay whisky, the 12.3 is the one for you.

The Takeaway: In the past, I would have called Octomore a novelty whisky: something you drink every once in a while when you’re in the mood for a strong and intense dram. With all three of the 12 editions, however, I found myself pouring glass after glass for days in a row, never once feeling brow-beaten by the peat or the proof. If pressed to choose just one, I’d probably side with the 12.1 due to my personal preference of American oak with this style of malt, but you really can’t go wrong with all three. As I mentioned earlier, they’re each unique enough to warrant purchasing all three. As far as peated whiskies go, they’re three of the most satisfying single malts I’ve tasted this year from anywhere. I could see myself even buying a refill.

-David Driscoll

Mission Exclusive Single Barrel New Riff

Are you ready to get down with the king?

While we've had plenty of single barrels from New Riff over the course of 2021, this one is all ours!! Bearing the crown of Mission on the label, this 103.8 proof Bourbon offers one of the most balanced and palate-pleasing profiles we've tasted all year, and the tasting notes ascribed to the label by New Riff are dead on: milk chocolate, jam, and toasted oak on the nose, followed by pineapple, hard cinnamon candy, and ginger on the palate. Originally laid down in May of 2017, we had this cask bottled at the end of August, making it a few months over four years of age. If you've been waiting to dip your toe in the wonderfully warm water that is New Riff Bourbon, this is the time to do it. I get the feeling people will be talking about this one long after it's gone. 

New Riff "Mission Exclusive" Single Barrel #3308-C Cask Strength Kentucky Bourbon $49.99

-David Driscoll

Chile Is Your Next Wine Adventure

Today’s jet-setters and world travelers are constantly on the hunt for the next great destination that combines excitement with affordability, and luxury with adventure.

But as any day trader will tell you: it’s often about getting in early.

People talk about Baja California in the seventies before it became commercialized, or Yosemite when you could still hike Half Dome without a reservation. Wine drinkers are no different. We're well aware that prices in Bordeaux are more than triple what they were ten years ago, that Burgundy is now for wealthy collectors, and that Napa is a far cry from what it used to be.

Winemakers and critics alike have been hailing South America as the new frontier for more than a decade, but that original messaging fizzled under a commodity-driven market that focused on points and press rather than winemaking and romance.

Yet, there's a reason stock brokers tell you to "buy the dip." It's the same reason I'm going to tell you to buy Santa Carolina wines today. There's a second renaissance awakening in the Southern Hemisphere.

Are you interested in Cabernet that's less than $20 a bottle, with the fleshiness and immediate drinkability of a California red, yet also the minerality and subtle complexity of a fine Haut-Médoc, and a fantastic story? 

Then you need to take another look at Chile—and specifically, Santa Carolina.

At the foot of the Andes, you've got soils that are similar to Bordeaux, cool weather for preserving acidity, and a rugged individualism that harkens back to Napa in the 1960s, with prices that are often too good to believe. That's why more and more people are drinking Chilean wines. It's the next great adventure.

Santa Carolina has been making wine in Chile for more than 140 years, but is continually evolving as a winemaker. By reinvigorating their vineyards and continuing to expand into rugged, mountainous new sites, the quality of their fruit has never been better.

In the Maipo Valley, where the remnants of an ancient glacier have carved out fertile nooks for Cabernet Sauvignon, the rocky terrain has an underbelly of sand and clay with fantastic drainage, making it very similar to Bordeaux. Like California, the region maintains a long growing season, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and develop complexity. The fruit for Santa Carolina's Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve comes entirely from El Mariscal vineyard in the higher Maipo Valley, with a soil composed of gravel, clay, and sand.

As of late, it's been producing incredible red wine with the complexity of Pessac-Leognan, yet the immediate ripeness of the Napa Valley—and for a fraction of the price.

Obviously, we're still living in an era where Parker points move the needle, so if the combination of sub-$20 Cabernet with 91 points from the Wine Advocate gets you excited, then we've got the bottle for you!

91 POINTS: ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE - The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva de Familia is a classical red from Maipo with moderate alcohol. It contains 5% Merlot and has a subtle nose and a juicy and tender palate with very fine tannins and clean and focused flavors. It has very good balance and freshness. -LG

But what's really exciting about the new Santa Carolina Reserva Cabernet for me personally is how much it reminds me of old world Bordeaux. As someone who truly treasures the combination of steak with claret, and the subtle earthiness that renders with every sip, it's nice to have something so affordable for those Tuesday winter evenings that really delivers for the dollar.

But there's still more to it.

Wine is obviously more than just a beverage to those of us who truly love it. It's about more than just flavor. It's about the expression of place, the romance of travel, and the love of a good meal.

Chile has long been a strong source for great wine values, but it never captured the imagination of wine drinkers the way it's beginning to today. Look at these photos from Santa Carolina! You've got steep mountain vineyards, gravelly soils, snow-capped peaks, cowboy vineyard managers, and a new focus on terroir that completely shines through in a wine like the 2018 Santa Carolina Reserva Cabernet.

For those of you looking for your next wine adventure, it's time to take another look at Chile, and the Santa Carolina is a great starting point. With prices this good for wines of this quality and restraint, I'd take advantage of the moment.

-David Driscoll