Catching Up With Tyler Winery

Last year, when I made several trips up to the Santa Rita Hills to tour what is, in my humble opinion, the hottest AVA in California right now, there was one particular winery I wasn’t able to squeeze onto the schedule: Tyler. Started by Santa Barbara native Justin Willett back in 2005, Tyler has been an homage to the great vineyards of the region since its inception, starting with wines made with fruit from Sanford & Benedict and Bentrock, eventually expanding into lesser-known sites like La Encantada and La Rinconada. Justin has been a champion of the Santa Rita Hills for his entire career, and it was great to finally sit down and talk about that passion in person.

Lunch was at Bottega Louie in West Hollywood. We started with pizza, then went for the salmon as we tasted through the 2020 wines: Chardonnay from La Rinconada and from the new Mae Estate that Justin and his wife purchased back in 2015. Pinot Noirs from Mae, La Rinconada, and La Encantada; all of which were unique and refined in their own way. The vintage was stunning across the board and the side-by-side comparison of the sites brought forth various explanations from Justin about production: whole cluster in this vineyard, not in this one. New oak for this vineyard, not for this one. The winemaking varies site by site, based on the needs of the wine.

As a huge Burgundy fan, Justin was quick to dissect the current state of affairs in terms of pricing and availability for France’s most famous wines, noting that the top wines of the Santa Rita Hills start to look pretty attractive at $60 and $70 compared to $600 and $700 for some of the top Burgundies. I couldn’t agree more. Ever since I started digging deeper into the AVA—trying whatever I could from Tyler, The Hilt, Liquid Farm, Sandhi, Sanford, and other top producers—my itch for Burgundy has been almost entirely satiated. It’s obviously a much longer topic of discussion than I have time for in this blog post, but it’s one I’m thinking more and more about each day. The Santa Rita Hills is our version of Burgundy here in California.

And what better pairing with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir than pan-fried salmon with crispy skin? Justin mentioned that he meets for meals and conversations with other top winemakers in the region to discuss the future of Santa Rita Hills and Santa Barbara County as a whole. “What are the wines supposed to taste like? What do we want them to be?” he asked rhetorically, as we discussed the growing awareness of appreciation of Southern California wine on a global scale. “One thing that’s really changed is its relationship to Los Angeles,” he said between bites as we tasted through the second flight; “Napa and Sonoma have always had the support of San Francisco, but LA hasn’t had the same relationship with Santa Barbara. That’s starting to change, however.”

I couldn’t agree more. As a Los Angeles resident who doesn’t plan on moving anywhere else for the rest of my life, the fact that I have this incredible wine culture in my backyard is a tremendous source of pride. My relationship with the Santa Rita Hills has grown tremendously since I relocated down south, and I’ve attempted to channel that passion into my buying here at Mission. In a few years, I can see that energy spreading into more and more Angelenos. And it’s about time!

-David Driscoll

Historic Vernaccia

Vernaccia from San Gimignano has a long history, and since the Renaissance period has been considered one of Italy’s oldest and most noble wines. Its fame has no doubt been strongly connected to its region of origin, San Gimignano – an ancient Tuscan town famed for its medieval towers. The Vernaccia wine grape is mentioned as early as 1276 in San Gimignano’s records and in Dante’s Divine Comedy, and was a wine considered to be fit for a king; Pope Martin IV in particular was said to be especially partial to eels cooked in Vernaccia.

The 2020 Selvabianca from Il Colombaio de Santa Chiara is not just a historic wine, it's one of the most delicious and food-friendly options in our store right now. Fleshy on the palate with stone fruit flavors and crisp acidity, it's more than just fantastic food wine; there's enough going to warrant a few glasses on its own. If this is your first bottle of Vernaccia, it surely won't be your last. Serve it with fish, chicken, carpaccio, or just by itself on the patio! Il Colombaio has received world-wide recognition for its wines, from Slow Food to Gamberro Rosso. The Selvabianca received the coveted Tre Bicchieri in 2019. It’s 100% Certified Organic and it’s going to be in my fridge for the next month as I just bought half a case.

-David Driscoll

Limited Radian Vineyard Allocation

Some customers here at Mission already know about my obsession with Radian Vineyard: the super-chalky, wildly-windy Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyard in the rugged Santa Rita Hills appellation near Santa Barbara. I'd never seen anything like it in California when I first visited last October, and I've been consumed with drinking its wines ever since.

What makes Radian wines so special? The sheer electricity. The combination of diatomaceous earth and cool mountain air creates a vibrant minerality that is completely unmatched by any fruit I've ever tasted in my 15+ year career. The Chardonnays are more Chablis-like than real Chablis. The Pinot Noirs are more complex than many Grand Cru Burgundies. The cliffs of Radian look like Dover, and the soil is full of chalk like Champagne.

Always limited in supply, our customers have had to compete with me for what few bottles we get into the store from both The Hilt and Liquid Farm, but at the moment we have a few cases in stock. As Vinous critic Antonio Galloni said in his review: "For readers who want to know what Pinots from Radian are like, well, this is a pretty great example!" Don't miss out. These Radian wines are single-handedly keeping California wine on the cutting edge of cool.

-David Driscoll, Mission Sales Director

2019 Liquid Farm "Radian Vineyard" Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir $69.99

94 POINTS: VINOUS - The 2019 Pinot Noir Radian Vineyard is a bold, luscious wine that shows the more virile side of the Santa Rita Hills. Deep red/purplish fruit, spice and exotic floral notes build effortlessly in the glass, For readers who want to know what Pinots from Radian are like, well, this is a pretty great example! -Antonio Galloni

Vinous extended notes: There’s plenty to like in these new releases from proprietor Jeff Nelson and winemaker James Sparks. The 2019 Chardonnays are all compelling. I would be thrilled to drink them any day of the week. In 2019, the Chardonnays seem especially precise, aromatic and delineated. Then again, Liquid Farm works with an enviable collection of vineyards. Pinot Noir is a more recent addition to the Liquid Farm range. Here, too, the wines are pretty strong. The Radian and Sanford & Benedict Pinots are especially fine. 

-David Driscoll

The Story of Ciacci is Incredible Enough. Wait Until You Taste the Wines

There are countless Brunello lovers around the planet who gobble up the Ciacci Piccolomini allocations each year and drink every bottle with zero knowledge of the story behind it. But if you can spare us two minutes of your time today, it's definitely one of the more incredible tales in our industry.

In the early 1900s, Elda Ciacci married Count Alberto Piccolomini d'Aragona, a direct descendent of Pope Pious II, and lived in a palace where the Ciacci estate sits today. A farmer named Giuseppe Bianchini was in charge of managing the vines, olive trees, and the rest of the 220 acre property, and he worked tirelessly on behalf of the Count until he passed, then on behalf of the Countess until her death in 1985.

Knowing her passing meant the end of an era, and of his employment at the estate, Giuseppe began to prepare for life after Ciacci until something incredible happened—the kind of miracle that only happens in Hollywood movies and fairy tales: it was discovered the Countess had willed the entire Ciacci estate, including all of the vines, trees, and buildings, to Giuseppe as a gift!

The final words of her will read: ‘I am sure that by doing this my name will be famous all over the world, because Giuseppe knows exactly what I want and he has the philosophy to produce a great quality winery."

And that is exactly what happened! Today Ciacci Brunello is revered globally as one of the finest producers of wine in all of Tuscany, and it's still run by Giuseppe’s family. With fantastic press and glowing accolades year after year, there's a reason this stuff is allocated. I buy a case of the Brunello sight unseen every vintage because while there are other great Sangioveses out there, few have the depth and elegance of these. The story of Ciacci is incredible enough. Wait until you try the wines.

2017 Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $59.99

93 POINTS: JAMES SUCKLING - Aromas of cedar, berry, mushroom and burnt orange follow through to a full body with medium, chewy tannins and a fluid, flavorful finish. Not overdone.

91 POINTS: VINOUS - A pretty and fruit-forward display of ripe cherries, minty herbs and sweet smoke wafts up from the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. This impresses further with a juicy, fun mix of bright red berries and confectionary spices motivated by vibrant acidity. Hints of plum and licorice linger long over a slightly gruff coating of tannins, yet in the end, balance is nicely maintained. Well done.

2017 Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso $79.99

94 POINTS: JAMES SUCKLING - This is a beautifully crafted and polished Brunello for this vintage, with full body and creamy, lightly chewy tannins. Dark berries, walnuts and cedar with dried-flower undertones. Needs time to soften, but very pretty.

92 POINTS: VINOUS - A nuanced, delicate bouquet of dried strawberries, roses, hints of sweet spice and crushed rocks lifts up from the charming 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso. This is remarkably lifted, yet juicy and energetic, as ripe red berries and minerals cascade across the palate. It leaves a coating of violet-tinged florals, along with persistent raspberry and cherry tones. The tannin management here is absolutely stunning, as the Pianrosso finishes structured yet vividly fresh.

-David Driscoll

Mediterranean Climate, Mountain Air

Are you ready for an inexpensive, crisp and delicious, everyday drinker that satisfies both your taste buds and your romantic ideas about French wine?

We've got just the bottle! The 2020 Closerie des Lys "Les Fruitieres," a delicious Chardonnay-based wine from the Languedoc region near the French Pyrenees: a site with both a Mediterranean climate and mountain influence. What does that mean for the wine, you ask? It means ripeness + acidity! The warm days help the grapes reach their peak on the vine, while the cool mountain evenings help them maintain freshness. The terroir is everything!

The 2020 La Closerie des Lys "Les Fruitières" Blanc $10.99 comes from vineyards deep in the Pyrenean foothills on the sides of two mountains, and is made made with equal parts Chardonnay and Mauzac, then 10% each of Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc added for pep. Balanced from front to back across all fronts, there's no better white wine value in our store right now. Crisp, mineral-driven, fresh, and snappy on the palate, the stone fruit flavors pop on the finish. If you like unoaked Chardonnay, snappy Sauvignon Blanc, or just about any clean, vibrant white wine from France, Italy, or Spain, this is a no-brainer.

The question you're probably asking yourself now is: how do they grow it, bottle it, and ship it halfway around the world for $10.99?

To which I say: don't ask, just enjoy!

-David Driscoll

Raison de Boire

As I was unpacking my suitcase this morning, setting aside the many bottles I picked up during the trip, I began working through the dialogue of a future conversation I’ll likely have later in the day. What were the best whiskies of the trip? What bottles were the most exciting? What did I use my limited luggage space for and why? What do I recommend looking for at duty free?

Here’s the thing about working in the booze industry: while we’re all generally passionate about alcohol, we invariably end up drinking the products from the people we like doing business with. As a result, pure qualitative analysis is almost never a determining factor in what I buy for my personal consumption. That’s not to say I don’t drink really good shit, but rather there’s a lot of really good shit I don’t drink. More importantly, that I won’t drink.

That’s why you have to be careful asking a booze professional about their personal preferences. It’s a loaded question because of all the emotional factors tied to business that weigh in on our decision making. The pleasure I get from drinking a certain wine or whiskey won’t resonate the same way with a general consumer. That’s why I have to be careful not to let my personal biases get in the way of my professional advice; not because I don’t want to push them in a certain direction, but rather because I don’t want to disappoint them!

When I drink a $200 bottle of Lynch-Bages, it brings me back to the château and the meal I had for dinner when I was last there. When I sip on a glass of Bowmore 15, I remember shoveling barley at 2 AM in the malting room of the distillery. My personal preferences for alcohol are often skewed towards my happiest memories and the nostalgia these beverages can offer me. When someone asks me what I like to drink, words alone cannot suffice. The emotional tie that I have with a person, place, or company often transcends the pure liquid itself.

But to simplify all this, imagine the following scenario. I’m sitting in a bar and someone tells the bartender: “I’ll have what he’s having.” That person is making the assumption that, as a booze professional, I probably looked at the list and made a strong qualitative decision based on the available options. However, that’s almost never the case. If I’m sitting in a bar with a glass of whisky, it’s likely something I’ve never tried before, or it’s the product of someone I know and respect. Quality-to-dollar is the furthest thing from my mind when I’m not at work.

I can think of countless occasions when I opened a bottle of wine for my wife, or poured a glass of whiskey for a friend, 100% ready for that person to be just as excited as I was. You learn over time, however, that it’s impossible to fully translate all of the biases that go into why you drink what you drink. I have nothing but respect for people who let the liquid speak for itself, untainted by the prejudices of the outside world.

That being said, I don’t live in that bubble.

-David Driscoll

The Grants - Part III

There’s a law in Scotland called “the right to roam,” which I learned about roughly ten years ago. While private property in terms of buildings and houses is respected and enforced, you’re allowed to access pretty much any open land for recreational purposes. Nature hikes, fishing, rock climbing—you name it. You can’t wander into random distillery buildings or bonded warehouses, but you definitely can explore the areas around just about any distillery without fear; even the legendary shuttered facilities like Convalmore, located just behind Balvenie. Closed in 1985, and purchased by the Grants back in 1992 to expand their warehousing, it casts a ghostly figure as you pass along the footpath between both sites.

Using your right to roam around the Grant family estate is a fun adventure if you’re in the area. You have to hop one fence and descend a small ravine to access an old railroad path, but it eventually takes you to the Dufftown train station. There’s a small commuter line that runs between Keith and the Dufftown and it’s as quaint as they come. Definitely worth stopping by as you make your way around what’s called the Isla Way.

Roaming through the Highlands isn’t just about perspective, it’s about the sensory experience and sense of place that links your mind to the moment and to the whisky created around you. I can’t tell you how sad and tragic the current practice of drinking and exchanging minis feels to my soul. Drinking 50ml of a particular whisky and moving on to the next sample is like taking a selfie at the airport and claiming you’ve been to Paris. Tasting a few sips of a single malt doesn’t give you any real understanding of a product other than the most basic overview. Like any relationship, you have to spend time with it. If you really want to understand a person, you go to where they’re from and meet their friends and family. The same goes for any Scotch whisky.

For the first few years of my booze career, I assumed the barley, the stills, and the wood were the most important components of a whisky’s essence. After a few trips to Scotland, I quickly learned that no element is more important than water; more specifically, where that water comes from and how much of it is available. Not only does the quality of the water greatly affect the flavor of the whisky, if there’s a particularly hot summer and the spring or “burn” that supplies the distillery starts to dry up, then the distillery shuts down until the water starts to flow again. As we walked with Kirsten up to Robbie Dhu—the water source for Glenfiddich and Balvenie—she explained how her family purchased all of the land around their water source to protect that supply. Nothing is more important to their whisky than the Robbie Dhu spring.

The Robbie Dhu is like something out of a Bronte sisters novel with the shaded grove around it, the heather peeping out from the hillsides, and the serenity of the flowing water easing your troubles. This is the source of the Grant family’s whiskies. It all starts here. From melting snow high in the Cairngorn mountains, these underground springs make their way down to the Highlands, permeating the landscape into the various rivers and tributaries that weave through Scotland and the whiskies created here. Every time it started to rain, Kirsten would say: “Today’s rain is tomorrow’s whisky.” It’s an adage that’s easy to gloss over and forget, yet it’s the quintessence of what makes a whisky.

-David Driscoll